solo: annapurna sanctuary Trek - May 1 - 20, 2022

Of course, no one really goes it alone, there are always friends that we meet along the way. Special thanks to Sumit Joshi of Himalayan Ascent, Kathmandu, Nepal, for the following itinerary.

This trek journeys through the best parts of the Annapurna range with stunning views of the Annapurnas and Daulagiri mountains. Following ancient foot trails used by hardy Gurung and Magar hill tribes who live here in the temperate forests amongest rhododendron trees, farming on steep terraces growing staples of maize and millet.

From Pokhara the trek leads first towards Annapurna Base Camp in the heart of the Annapurna Sanctuary to enjoy an arena view of the 4 Annapurnas (I, 8091m 10th highest mountain and II-IV) and other peaks all above 7000m. Then returning to Chimrong, and from here heading west through alpine forests to Kopra ridge.

The camp on Kopra hill offers exceptional panoramic views of the entire Annapurna range including a fearsome close view of Dhaulagiri (8167m, 7th highest mountain) with a steep face that plunges into the Kali Gandakhi river creating the deepest gorge in the world.

A day hike north east of camp will bring me to Khayer lake (~4000m), a sacred lake worshiped by locals during the Badau Purnima festival. The trail finally winds down to Ghorepani for sunrise views of the Annapurna range from Pun hill, before the trek back towards Pokhara.

itinerary:

Day 1:

Kathmandu

DAY 2: Fly to Pokhara, drive to Kande (1776m) and trek to Pothana/Australian Camp (1900m) ~1.5 hr.

In the morning, it’s a short 30 min flight to Pokhara. Once there, load into a jeep to drive to the trailhead at Kande and a short day of trekking up the ridge on stone steps to Pothana. Here, there’s an expectation to be rewarded with the first clear views of Machhapuchhre. As a sacred mountain, climbing Machhapuchhre is prohibited so it remains an unconquered mountain.

DAY 3: Trek Pothana (1900m) to Landruk (1640m) ~5 hr.

At Pothana wake early and catch sunrise over these stunning mountains before breakfast! Today is an easy day, following a gentle forest trail to Deurali (2100m), the highest point of the day. This little settlement enjoys views of Hiunchuli and Annapurna South. The path continues over stone steps through Gurung villages near the valley floor by the Modi Khola river, stopping at Landruk for the night.

DAY 4: Trek Landruk (1640m) to Chimrong (2170m) ~5 hr

The start of this day should be a pleasant walk further down to the valley floor heading northwards by Modi khola river, crossing a suspension bridge to the true right of the river, and continue north-east to Annapurna sanctuary. After crossing a wooden bridge, it’s a steep trek on the ridge to the Gurung village of Chimrong. Before the climb to the village, there’s an option to enjoy natural hot springs a short walk from Jhinu Danda.

DAY 5: Trek Chimrong (2170m) to Bamboo (2245m) ~6.5 hr

The day begins dropping behind Chimrong to cross a bridge, and then trekking up stairs to Sinuwa. From here, the trek is easy continuing up the valley, traversing high above Modi Khola, passing through dense rhododendron and oak forests to Kuldigar, and descending to the valley floor to rest at the river settlement of Bamboo for the night.

DAY 6: Trek Bamboo (2245m) to Dovan (2600m) ~5 hr

The trek leads north easterly, closely following the Modi river up the valley. It’s a gradual ascent of stone stairs passing through forests to Dovan. The air here begins to thin, as the route inches higher towards base camp — may begin to feel some affects of high altitude. The best advice is always to walk slow and drink plenty of water.

DAY 7: Trek Dovan (2600m) to Machhapuchre base camp (3700m)~5 hr

Today requires a significant altitude gain. It’s important to trek slowly. The route now journeys to the head of the valley, on a trail that is flanked by Hiun Chuli (6434m) on the left and Mardi Himal (5553m) and Machhapuchre (6997m) on the right. We will pass through several settlements before reaching Machhapuchre base camp that is situated at the terminal end of the South Annapurna glacier. In this clearing, you can enjoy close views of Tare Kang and Gangapurna in the north, and Machhapurche in the south east.

Day 8: Trek Machhapuchre base camp (3700m) to Annapurna base camp (4130m) ~2.5 hr

It’s another gradual ascent to Annapurna base camp following a trail alongside the glacier heading west. At this high altitude, any increase in incline makes every step tiring. However, it’s a rewarding experience reaching first objective of Annapurna base camp in the heart of the sanctuary. Surrounding this wonderland are some of the highest peaks in the world. We have the afternoon free to explore this haven of himalayan giants.

DAY 9: Trek Annapurna base camp (4130m) to Himalaya Hotel (2900m) ~5 hr

The second stage of the adventure awaits, so there’s a trek back first to Machhapuchre base camp and descent down the valley to a much needed rest stop at the Himalaya Hotel.

DAY 10: Trek Himalaya Hotel (2900m) to Chimrong (2170m) ~5 hr

It’s an easy day gently descending and ascending back to Chimrong. Now back in low alpine forests and richer air, there’s a brief opportunity to rest the body, in preparation for the next objective, Kopra ridge.

DAY 11: Trek Chimrong (2170m) to Tadapani (2630m) ~5.5 hr

At first, the trail heads south west following the mountain contour passing a few small Gurung settlements and beautiful farm gardens. This is a quiet trail with few tourists, that drops 300m to the river, crosses it and then there’s a hike up through a thick rhododendron canopy containing some of the tallest rhododendron trees in Nepal. After a brief break for lunch, it’s then a short walk to Tadapani on top of the ridge for the night.

DAY 12: Trek Tadapani (2630m) and Bailey Kharka (3300m) ~6 hr

This section of the trek is more remote and follows villager trails towards Kopra hill, breaking from the main trail of trekkers heading to Ghorepani and ascend up a long ridge.

DAY 13: Trek Bailey Kharka (3300m) to Kopra danda (3720m) ~4 hr

Taking a short cut from the regular route that dips down into the valley and then back up the ridge, instead trek around the ridge and up onto Kopra danda. Parts of the section are steep. The view from Kopra danda is one of the finest in the region. It affords a quiet and exceptional close panoramic view of the Himalayas.

DAY 14: Day hike to Khayer lake (~4000m) ~8 hr

If feeling energetic and curious enough to explore this region further, there’s an option to day hike to the spirtual Khayer lake. It’s a worthy pilgrim’s hike up the steep hills to the lake. The views of Dhaulagiri are ever closer here. The trek back presents an opportunity to enjoy sunset views across the valley.

DAY 15: Trek Kopra danda (3720m) to Sontha (1800m) ~5 hr

This is an easy down hill day back down the ridge to a small settlement near the valley floor. Sontha is one of many Magar villages in the area; hardy hill peope who live off the land and farm on steep terraces. It’s a harsh but traditional lifestyle, and is representative of how many Nepalis live in farming village communities.

DAY 16: Trek Sontha (1800m) to Ghorepani (2750m) ~3.5 hr

From Sonetha the route crosses the river and up the hillside to the town of Ghorepani. This is the main tourist centre in the Annapurna region with well trodded foot trails. here’s time to wander the bazaar or learn about the local Magar culture in the museum for the afternoon.

DAY 17: Trek Ghorepani (2750m) to Birethanti (1025m) ~7 hr, drive to Pokhara

From Ghorepani, Pun Hill (3185m) is a short 1 hr walk before the sun rises so it will be an early start. The lookout offers a wonderful panorama of the entire Annapurna range, and a sun rise view of this setting is just glorious! There’s time to return to the teahouse for breakfast and prepare for the big descent to Birethanti. The trek down includes a long stone staircase between Ulleri and Hile. It’s a pleasant walk along the Bhurungdi river through Magar villages and bamboo forests to the trail end at Birethanti. From here it’s time to load into a jeep for the grueling, 7 hour drive back to Pokhara and hot showers!

DAY 18: Fly to Kathmandu

Hopefully, if the day is clear, to it’ll be a fantastic mountain flight back to Kathmandu, passing over the Annapurna and Langtang ranges.

DAY 19: In Kathmandu

This is the last day to catch some sight seeing, shop, relax and prepare for departure. Make time to visit World Heritage sites; Bhaktapur and Durbar Square, they provide another perspective on Nepal’s diverse culture and ancient architectural history.

DAY 20: Depart Kathmandu

Bidding Kathmandu and Nepal farewell for now...

alternet itnerary: ANNAPURna circuit trek

DAY 1 Arrive Kathmandu

DAY 2 Kathmandu

DAY 3 Drive Besisahara

DAY 4 Trek Besisahar to Khundi

DAY 5 trek khundi to Bahundanda

day 6 trek bahaundanda to jagat

DAY 7 Trek Tilje (2300m) to Bagarchhap (2160m) ~5 hrs

We continue up the gorge trail to Dharapani, which sits by the mighty Marshyangdi river. Here we join the classic Annapurna Circuit Trail and climb to Bagarchhap.

DAY 8 Trek Bagarchhap (2160m) to Chame (2670m) ~6 hrs

For the next few days the trail is now a gorge track that follows the Marshyandi river upstream through dense forests. We criss cross traditional old foot trails and jeep tracks, and pass through Manangi villages.

DAY 9 Trek Chame (2670m) to Upper Pisang (3300m) ~7 hrs

As we continue to climb and regain altitude, the forests slowly give way to alpine scrubs. We will cross the Marshyangdi river and stay north of the river at Upper Pisang.

DAY 10 Trek Upper Pisang (3300m) to Manang (3540m) ~8 hrs

Leaving the main trail to Manang, our route passes through the traditonal village of Ghyaru just north of Upper Pisang. We keep north of the river on foot trails for most of the day with views of the Chulus mountains to the north and the Annapurnas to the south. Before we reach Manang, we will stop to visit some monasteries in the historic village of Braga.

DAY 11 Rest day in Manang

Manang is the major township of the region and offers services similar to Namche in the Khumbu (e.g. cafes, pubs). Today is a well deserved rest day to relax. You can also explore the older parts of Manang and the local Manang monastery.

DAY 12 Trek Manang (3540m) to Thorung Phedi (4500m) ~ 7 hrs

Today we leave the Marshyandi and head north contouring Chulu East mountain. It’s a steady day of climbing up the valley to the scree slopes of Thorung Phedi. This is the base of Thorung La pass. We’ll rest early for a big pass crossing the next day.

DAY 13 Trek Thorung Phedi (4500m) to Muktinath (3800m) via Thorung La Pass (5445m) ~8-10 hrs

We aim to cross the pass by mid morning to avoid possible strong winds at the pass, so we will start the day around 4am. The climb to the pass will be a slow gradual ascent on switchbacks. We will welcome the sight of prayer flags at the top! To the south we’ll be rewarded with views of the entire Annapurna region and Dhaulagiri, and to the north views of the Mustang plains. It’s cold at the top so we won’t hang about for too long. The trek to Muktinath is a long steep descent on switchbacks.

DAY 14 Trek Muktinath (3800m) to Jomsom (2713m) ~ 5 hrs

Muktinath is a scared place for Hindus and Buddhists with many important temples visited by pilgrims. We will bypass the jeep track to Jomson by descending along a foot trail to Panda river and walking to Lupra, a small Thakali village. From here we rejoin the road trail at Panda back to Jomson. Tonight is our last night with our porters and guides so there will be a farewell dinner to thank them for their support.

DAY 15 Fly Jomson to Pokhara ~ 25 Minutes, Pokarha to Kathmandu ~ 30 Minutes

The flight to Pokhara will be early in the morning. Flight to Kathmandu, later same day.

DAY 16 Kathmandu

Day 17 Depart Kathmandu